Indelible Izmir

A horse-drawn carriage along the Izmir boardwalk.

No matter how many trips you take in a lifetime, there are bound to be little things—memories—that really stick with you. At least, that’s always been the case for me. I wonder, have you felt the same way, too?

Long after I’d unpacked my bags from my visit to Izmir,Turkey, in May 2011, I’m still remembering so many of those little moments. At the time, I didn’t realize how much they’d linger with me—and how fond I’d be, so many months later.

Cesme could be a stand-in for the Caribbean, no?

Izmir is not as well known as Istanbul but, in my opinion it should be. This coastal city and province, which stretches along the Western coast of Turkey is warm and welcoming. There’s a genuine authenticity here that can be hard to find these days. What really fascinated me about Izmir was its ability to combine—ancient and modern; Greek and Turkish; beaches and cities—all into one another so seamlessly. In a single day, you could be walking through the ancient ruins of Ephesus and later lounging beachside at an ultra-modern resort. For me, however, what really sold me on Izmir was its people—their warmth and hospitality, and I think my photographs are proof positive of that.

So, here are just a few of my favorite memories of Izmir, Turkey.

That was one slimy octopus.

The overly excitable and joyful fishmonger at the wet market in Foça: I’ve never encountered someone so happy to show off his latest catch—it included a pretty gnarly octopus—to a complete stranger.

I loved her smile--and her hair. 

The dogs: There were so many adorable dogs throughout Izmir that the dog lover inside me just couldn’t resist.

Hello, Kitty, in Alcati

The cats: Same goes for the cats. They were pretty cute—and they tended to travel in serious prides.

Turkish coffee with dessert in Alcati

Turkish Coffee & Tea: The tea is a bit on the sweet side for my tastes, but it’s so refreshing. The coffee has the consistency of mud, but I love it.

Raki: It isn’t for everyone but man, it certainly packs a punch.

Photo (c) Jordan Dukov (an incredibly talented photographer )

The elderly lady who sold me a handcrafted wreath of daisies: Beneath her sweet demeanor was the steely resolve of a serious saleswoman, but I was so happy with that purchase anyway.

Spirituality: During my visit, I went to a synagogue, a church and a mosque and each house of worship left an indelible impression on me.

At the synagogue in Izmir

The Wall of Prayers outside the House of the Virgin Mary

A Catholic church that was converted into a mosque in Cesme

The food: It’s delicious, from the freshest of fish to the gummiest of ice creams.

Fish, fresh from the boat

Turkish ice cream almost defies gravity.

Simit, a Turkish pretzel bread covered in sesame seeds

Breakfast is served

Remarkable Ruins: No matter how many times I’ve traversed the sites of ancient ruins, those feelings of awe never go away. That was especially true for me at Ephesus and the ancient ruins of Smyrna.

Ephesus

The agora of Smyrna

The sense of national pride: I saw so many beautifully draped and displayed Turkish flags during my visit—my guess is that it probably had something to do with Youth and Sports Day on May 19. Regardless, the flags were a beautiful sight to behold.

Along the boardwalk in Izmir

The friends I made along the way: One of the best byproducts of traveling, in my opinion. I hope you'll agree.

Bundled up during a chilly night of outdoor dining.

Now, it's your turn. Let me know what some of your favorite travel memories are...I’d love to hear them.

One Year Later

One year to the day, I’m back again. After what seems like a very long, overdue absence, I’ve decided to revisit Passport Confessional because I’ve realized one thing: my hunger for travel isn’t over just yet.

Exactly one year ago, as I wrote my last post, “Canadian Roots,” I was sitting in a hotel room in Calgary, Alberta, waiting out the blast of a massive, icy snowstorm to pass through the night. Today, I’m at home, back here in L.A., looking out onto a street that, already, bears no signs of the much more miniscule Pacific rainstorm that passed through here just hours ago.

I miss New York sometimes.

So much has happened in this past year that I don’t even know where to begin. I suppose I’ll keep things short and to the point.

I moved to New York and started a new job. I loved it there, even though it could be tough (Six-floor walk-up? No sweat for me these days!), even though I really dreaded traveling on the subway in the deadening humidity of summer, and even though I pretty much lived paycheck to paycheck (Oh, the high cost of living in NYC).

I traveled to Izmir, Turkey. 

Please don't try this at home.

Then I traveled to Disneyland for an assignment. 

Then I moved back to LA. 

I learned how to shoot guns in Montana (an experience I’m not so sure I will want to repeat). 

I traveled to Vancouver, B.C., for the first time and discovered the joy of bacon ice cream sandwiches (no joke, the proof is on its way in a future post).

When I had to leave my job in New York and move back to L.A., I wasn’t sure I’d still be able to call myself a travel writer, even though I continue to freelance for the NYC publications I had to leave. I struggled to define what I was without those editorial titles or frequent press trip requests. But, over time, I’ve realized that, title or not, sharing the travel experiences that I’ve had—and the ones I’ve yet to encounter—is what really defines me as a writer, as a travel writer.

So, without any further delay, I’m back and I hope to be writing about some of those trips right here again very soon. 

Favorites, 2010 (Part 4, Friends)

What’s even better than getting to eat really well and see amazing sights? Getting to share all of that with your friends and family, of course. I was lucky enough to do just that this year …

Margery and I have traveled together twice—first to Israel in September 2009 and most recently to the Big Island, Maui and Oahu in March 2010. During our Hawaii trip I got to know Margery so much better and together we conquered a number of firsts, including our very first helicopter ride over the volcanoes on the Big Island. That, and also having to endure my crazy rental car driving skills on the Big Island—my apologies, Margery!

This year was also the second time that I got to travel with Daniel, one of my favorite PR reps ever. This year, he and Mariela (left) hosted me and a few other journalists in Mexico’s Riviera Maya, first in Cozumel and then in Playa del Carmen. Together, we shared many a margarita, rogue ocean waves and one very scary encounter with a wayward clown. This shot was taken right before we took a snorkeling excursion just off the coast of Cozumel.

Leslie is one of my dearest friends—we’ve known each other since high school. So, when I had an opportunity to cash in some vacation time and hoof it over to New York to see her, I didn’t let it pass me by.

Reuniting with my cousin Christina and her boyfriend Coco was one of the things I most looked forward to during my recent trip to Southeast Asia. Both of them, experienced world travelers that they are, are endlessly entertaining, funny, thoughtful and insightful. I especially loved this shot of the two of them, posing for a very regal portrait at Villa Sentosa in Melaka, Malaysia.

And finally, although I only traveled about 20 or so miles for this trip to the L.A. Times Food & Wine Festival, it’s a trip I’ll always remember for the company I kept with three of my closest friends—Justina, Tricia and Jennifer. I hope I’ll get to travel with them at a slightly further distance in 2011.

And while it’s been wonderful looking back on my travels this past year, I’m ready to start looking ahead to the next and I hope you’ll consider doing the same. So, here’s to a new year filled with unforgettable experiences no matter how near or far you go.

Favorites, 2010 (Part 2, Scenes)

The more I pored over my photos from 2010, the more I realized that my most memorable scene photos often involve the following: animals (especially dogs), clothing and motor vehicles, strangely enough. Anyway, here are a few of my favorites form the past year …

"B19" is the name of the adorably cute—and lazy—Hawaiian monk seal that we encountered during a kayaking and snorkeling adventure on Hawaii’s Big Island, near the Captain Cook Monument.

I love the lava-rock beaches that you find on the Big Island. They might not be ideal for sunbathing but they’re certainly beautiful to admire.

Same goes for this fragrant gardenia bloom that I found on the Big Island.

Sunset at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa

Just-caught mahimahi that I spotted during a stroll in Lahaina, Maui

Hanging ukuleles, also in Lahaina

Two of many motorbikes I’d photograph this year, first in Lahaina …

… Then in Melaka, Malaysia. I couldn’t get over the brightly colored walls.

The Royal Hawaiian is just one of those hotels that makes you feel instantly transported to another time and era. I especially loved this glossy hallway.

Jasmine from the North Shore Cattle Co.—so lovable

More scenic shots from the North Shore Cattle Co. I loved how red the dirt was.

Hanging work clothes from Twin Bridge Farms on Oahu’s North Shore

A chic dress from one of the numerous boutiques that line Haji Lane in Singapore.

Birds swooped right above our heads during a visit to the Bolsa Chica Wetlands in Huntington Beach, Calif.

This old-school typewriter reminded me of the one that my mom used to teach me how to type.

Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge & Gallery in Costa Rica was simply stunning for a lodge in the middle of the rainforest. Can you believe this is the gallery/lobby area?

During an early (very early) morning quetzal-spotting excursion, a group of horses unexpectedly ran past us on the same dirt road that we were standing on.

Also in Costa Rica, I got to see hummingbirds up close at Trogon Lodge …

… As well as meet the lodge’s resident canine.

Arenal Volcano was simply breathtaking to see, both at night …

… And in the morning.

The cat rescue center at The Springs Resort in Costa Rica was home to some ferocious …

… And playful cats.

The High Line in New York City’s Meatpacking District was a highlight.

I loved nothing more than to kick off my flip flops and lounge in my personal hammock during a press trip to Cozumel in Mexico.

Likewise, this cat felt the same way, albeit in the comfort of a wooden bench, along Singapore’s Haji Lane.

During a nighttime bum boat ride along the Singapore River, I snapped this shot of the brand-new Marina Bay Sands. Sort of resembles a spaceship, no?

Later, during my stay at the Marina Bay Sands, I took in its amazing Sands SkyPark with a view of the city.

No matter where I go, I always find that Chinatown is filled with colorful scenes, from crimson-red lanterns …

… to tchotchkes.

It was actually difficult to spot graffiti in Singapore (big surprise, huh?) so I loved finding this one in an alleyway near Haji Lane.

Singapore’s Boat Quay at night

I loved that this chandelier, from the lobby of Singapore’s Wanderlust hotel, was made with actual vintage Campari bottles.

Melaka is particularly known for its outlandish buggies—and their equally eccentric styles. This one was outfitted with Barbie dolls.

Melaka is also home to rundown, but still standing, fortresses, like this one.

And where else but at Changi International Airport can you waste time in the airport’s very own butterfly garden?

Next up, favorite foods from 2010 …