Hawaii, March 2010 (Part Three, Oahu)

While driving into Waikiki from the Honolulu Airport, the driver remarked, “It looks just like home for you, huh?”

Well, not quite exactly. His argument did have some merit, though. It certainly helped that it was a particularly voggy (volcanic fog) day, with the clouds doing their best impersonation of L.A. smog. And yes, it was a change to finally see tall buildings along the highway that weren’t just hotels or resorts. But still, Honolulu is not L.A.— and thank God for that.

I love that Oahu has so much to offer—beautiful beaches, plenty of shopping, city life, country life and most of all, good eats. This was my third time to the island and I loved revisiting it and discovering new things along the way.

The first thing I did when I arrived was to start exploring Waikiki. I hadn’t been to Waikiki since I first visited Oahu nearly 19 years ago, and it’s changed dramatically since then.

It also happened to be Saint Patrick’s Day, which had people getting into a festive mood.

The view from my room at the Sheraton Waikiki was beautiful…

…As was the view from the infinity-edge pool.

On the lobby level, guests can take ukulele lessons with Bruce Shimabukuro at the Ukulele Puapua store. His brother, Jake, is also a well-known ukulele player.

The store also sells, you guessed it, ukulele-playing Obama bobbleheads, too.

Next to the Sheraton is The Royal Hawaiian—one of my favorite hotels, ever, I think.

I loved this old-fashioned telephone near the main elevators.

A snapshot from its restaurant

My idea of paradise

After strolling around The Royal, we went down the block to the Moana Surfrider where I had afternoon tea at the Beachhouse at the Moana.

I thought it was kind of fun to see this at the restaurant—a family photo. Of whom, I have no idea, but you gotta love the matching aloha shirts.

By far, my favorite thing to do on Oahu is eat, so it certainly whet my appetite when we embarked on a North Shore farm tour. Our first stop? The Dole Plantation, where I saw pineapples taking a bath…

...Examined coffee berries up close...

…and tasted fresh cacao. It’s not bad, but don’t bite into it, or it can be really bitter.

Later, we stopped to have Waialua coffee (also from Dole) and some of the best biscotti ever.

Of course, since we were in Hawaii, we just had to do our farm tour in our flip flops, no less. (I'm the odd one out, wearing Birkenstocks.)

The day before, I had to wear these adorable booties on my tour of Iolani Palace.

The second farm we visited was Twin Bridge Farms where they grow asparagus, tomatoes…

…and even blue Russian potatoes.

The farm employees were so friendly.

I loved this shot from the farm, too.

Afterward, we headed to the North Shore Cattle Co. where we were got stuck in a rush hour of cow crossings.

This is where I met Jasmine, an adorably chubby dog—so cute and incredibly rotund.

I loved this shot of the ranch owner’s son—he was equally adorable.

After our farm tour, we took the long way back to Honolulu, traveling along the North Shore coast and checking out both beaches and shrimp trucks.

The next morning, we left bright and early to head to the KCC Farmers’ Market—probably my all-time fave. I love that you can buy chilli water there…

…And even get serenaded with a performance by Makana, a famous slack-key guitarist.

You can also buy beautiful flowers here…

And encounter really large—but incredibly friendly—dogs.

Or you can be like this little fella (the same one from the ranch) and find pure bliss from a grilled Portuguese sausage. Look at that face!

And for our final meal of the morning, we headed to Diamond Head Market & Grill where you really can buy beef bourguignon to take home.

I can’t wait until my next trip…

(All photos © Deanna Ting)

Local Perspectives

As much as I love being a travel writer, I must confess that there are, in fact, a few (mostly minor) downsides: (1) Not being able to travel with your loved ones. (2) Having to travel with people you don’t necessarily love (or even like). (3) Not getting to experience the destination as a local would.

Number three is a tricky one because, quite frankly, it can be difficult to get an authentic meal in some parts of the world, let alone a uniquely local perspective from start to finish. And, when you’re on a press trip, you have to pretty much stick to the plan. The plan, while usually jam packed with activities, doesn’t always leave enough time to let you wander and explore, meet the residents or even taste the regional specialties. (Also, I especially love encounters with friendly "wildlife"--like Jasmine from the North Shore Cattle Co. on Oahu--an absolute sweetheart of a dog. That's her drool on my leggings.)
 

My encounter with Jasmine from the North Shore Cattle Co., a family-owned cattle ranch on Oahu. //(c) Deanna Ting 2010

Fortunately, though, I’ve been lucky enough to benefit from the expertise of passionate and knowledgeable residents in a number of places that I’ve visited. I was reminded of that most recently on a trip to Hawaii just last week. Were it not for Candice and her team at Starwood Hawaii, I would never have known that Oahu’s North Shore grows some of the best coffee I’ve ever had, nor would I have ever tasted the meaty deliciousness of kimchee sausage on a stick.

Candice introduces Margery to some fried green tomatoes at the KCC Farmers' Market. Note the kimchee sausage on a stick in her hand. //(c) Deanna Ting 2010

Hawaii, in particular, is a place where there are locals and there are tourists—there’s a big distinction. Although I’ve been to Hawaii at least four times now, I am in no way a local and I would never dare aspire to be. Thanks to friends (and especially my boyfriend and his relatives), however, I’ve been privy to some of the best local spots on Oahu—places you won’t likely see in your Lonely Planet guidebook. And while I’m all for doing touristy things, traveling from a local’s perspective is always much more memorable and—let’s be honest—it comes with much better-tasting food, too.

Here are some of my favorite low-key (and mostly local) spots on Oahu:

Aki no-No: A little-known izakaya (Japanese-style pub) located in the Manoa neighborhood, near the University of Hawaii. Try the roasted gingko nuts--they're like macadamia nuts but chewier.

Diamond Head Market & Grill: Although I’m a sucker for any baked good, I’m not the biggest fan of scones because most of them tend to be hard as a rock. The blueberry and cream cheese scone here, however, was a revelation—soft, moist, creamy and tart. Another bonus? You can even buy beef bourguignon to take home—how ingenious!

Kailua Beach Park: My favorite beach on Oahu, hands down. I can never get over how beautifully blue its water is, or how fine the white-sand beach is. Even President Obama—an Oahu native—agrees. (Photo (c) WhiteHouse.gov)

KCC Farmers’ Market: KCC, short for Kapiolani Community College, is home to my favorite Saturday farmers’ market. Where else but in Hawaii can you find kimchee sausage, kalua pork sliders (right), barbecued abalone, taro poke, shave ice and strawberry mochi all in one place? (Photo (c) Deanna Ting 2010)

Like Like Drive Inn Restaurant: A classic local-style diner that’s light on ambience but heavy on the helpings of pipikaula (Hawaiian-style dried beef) and loco moco (white rice topped with a burger patty and an over-easy egg smothered with butter brown gravy).

Liliha Bakery: Two words—coco puffs (left). I dream about this old-time bakery’s decadent chocolate cream puffs topped off with a buttery, salty, sweet Chantilly frosting—they’re just that good. (Photo (c) Liliha Bakery) 

Waiola Shave Ice: Shave ice is a must on any trip to Hawaii and Waiola’s is one of the best I’ve had (I’m hoping to try Shimazu on my next visit). Don’t skimp on the good stuff—go for the ice cream, azuki (sweet red beans), condensed milk and mochi balls. Remember, calories don’t really count when you’re on vacation.

Zippy’s: Okay, so they’re everywhere on Oahu but I have to admit that this Hawaiian version of Denny’s is good—always satisfying and, even better, open 24 hours a day. While they’ve got great oxtail soup and saimin, they also make a mean chili, believe it or not.

Here’s to new additions from future visits...