Indelible Izmir

A horse-drawn carriage along the Izmir boardwalk.

No matter how many trips you take in a lifetime, there are bound to be little things—memories—that really stick with you. At least, that’s always been the case for me. I wonder, have you felt the same way, too?

Long after I’d unpacked my bags from my visit to Izmir,Turkey, in May 2011, I’m still remembering so many of those little moments. At the time, I didn’t realize how much they’d linger with me—and how fond I’d be, so many months later.

Cesme could be a stand-in for the Caribbean, no?

Izmir is not as well known as Istanbul but, in my opinion it should be. This coastal city and province, which stretches along the Western coast of Turkey is warm and welcoming. There’s a genuine authenticity here that can be hard to find these days. What really fascinated me about Izmir was its ability to combine—ancient and modern; Greek and Turkish; beaches and cities—all into one another so seamlessly. In a single day, you could be walking through the ancient ruins of Ephesus and later lounging beachside at an ultra-modern resort. For me, however, what really sold me on Izmir was its people—their warmth and hospitality, and I think my photographs are proof positive of that.

So, here are just a few of my favorite memories of Izmir, Turkey.

That was one slimy octopus.

The overly excitable and joyful fishmonger at the wet market in Foça: I’ve never encountered someone so happy to show off his latest catch—it included a pretty gnarly octopus—to a complete stranger.

I loved her smile--and her hair. 

The dogs: There were so many adorable dogs throughout Izmir that the dog lover inside me just couldn’t resist.

Hello, Kitty, in Alcati

The cats: Same goes for the cats. They were pretty cute—and they tended to travel in serious prides.

Turkish coffee with dessert in Alcati

Turkish Coffee & Tea: The tea is a bit on the sweet side for my tastes, but it’s so refreshing. The coffee has the consistency of mud, but I love it.

Raki: It isn’t for everyone but man, it certainly packs a punch.

Photo (c) Jordan Dukov (an incredibly talented photographer )

The elderly lady who sold me a handcrafted wreath of daisies: Beneath her sweet demeanor was the steely resolve of a serious saleswoman, but I was so happy with that purchase anyway.

Spirituality: During my visit, I went to a synagogue, a church and a mosque and each house of worship left an indelible impression on me.

At the synagogue in Izmir

The Wall of Prayers outside the House of the Virgin Mary

A Catholic church that was converted into a mosque in Cesme

The food: It’s delicious, from the freshest of fish to the gummiest of ice creams.

Fish, fresh from the boat

Turkish ice cream almost defies gravity.

Simit, a Turkish pretzel bread covered in sesame seeds

Breakfast is served

Remarkable Ruins: No matter how many times I’ve traversed the sites of ancient ruins, those feelings of awe never go away. That was especially true for me at Ephesus and the ancient ruins of Smyrna.

Ephesus

The agora of Smyrna

The sense of national pride: I saw so many beautifully draped and displayed Turkish flags during my visit—my guess is that it probably had something to do with Youth and Sports Day on May 19. Regardless, the flags were a beautiful sight to behold.

Along the boardwalk in Izmir

The friends I made along the way: One of the best byproducts of traveling, in my opinion. I hope you'll agree.

Bundled up during a chilly night of outdoor dining.

Now, it's your turn. Let me know what some of your favorite travel memories are...I’d love to hear them.

One Year Later

One year to the day, I’m back again. After what seems like a very long, overdue absence, I’ve decided to revisit Passport Confessional because I’ve realized one thing: my hunger for travel isn’t over just yet.

Exactly one year ago, as I wrote my last post, “Canadian Roots,” I was sitting in a hotel room in Calgary, Alberta, waiting out the blast of a massive, icy snowstorm to pass through the night. Today, I’m at home, back here in L.A., looking out onto a street that, already, bears no signs of the much more miniscule Pacific rainstorm that passed through here just hours ago.

I miss New York sometimes.

So much has happened in this past year that I don’t even know where to begin. I suppose I’ll keep things short and to the point.

I moved to New York and started a new job. I loved it there, even though it could be tough (Six-floor walk-up? No sweat for me these days!), even though I really dreaded traveling on the subway in the deadening humidity of summer, and even though I pretty much lived paycheck to paycheck (Oh, the high cost of living in NYC).

I traveled to Izmir, Turkey. 

Please don't try this at home.

Then I traveled to Disneyland for an assignment. 

Then I moved back to LA. 

I learned how to shoot guns in Montana (an experience I’m not so sure I will want to repeat). 

I traveled to Vancouver, B.C., for the first time and discovered the joy of bacon ice cream sandwiches (no joke, the proof is on its way in a future post).

When I had to leave my job in New York and move back to L.A., I wasn’t sure I’d still be able to call myself a travel writer, even though I continue to freelance for the NYC publications I had to leave. I struggled to define what I was without those editorial titles or frequent press trip requests. But, over time, I’ve realized that, title or not, sharing the travel experiences that I’ve had—and the ones I’ve yet to encounter—is what really defines me as a writer, as a travel writer.

So, without any further delay, I’m back and I hope to be writing about some of those trips right here again very soon. 

Canadian Roots

Okay, so here’s my first confession of 2011: I am a terrible relative—guilty as charged.

For years, I’ve long avoided taking a trip to Calgary, Canada, to see some of my relatives—aunties, uncles, cousins and great nieces and nephews whose names I only knew from Christmas cards. I mean, why travel up to see them when they can travel to Los Angeles to visit us? And even if I did, I thought, what would I do? What would I see?

Well, it only took a weeklong press trip assignment to Alberta, Canada—in the dead of winter, no less— to finally get myself up here. After having to invest in a full-length, goose down parka and some toasty Sorel boots to brave the frigid winter climes, I was even more reluctant to go. But now that I am here, I’m kicking myself for not coming up sooner.

At first, I’ll admit I was a little nervous about spending the first few days of my trip with my relatives. I’d only met a handful of them once beforehand—mostly when I was only three years old. So, even though they’re family, they were practically strangers to me.

But here’s the thing: family is family. No matter where you go, they’re going to be there for you, for better or for worse— and even if the last time that they actually saw you was when you were still wearing diapers—or better yet, never.



My view from Calgary Tower --serious winter boots included.


As soon as I got off the plane, my auntie Lillian and cousin Sue whisked me away to lunch—dim sum, of course—and we were off. Soon enough, I was walking through Chinatown in downtown, peering down from the observation deck of the Calgary Tower and enjoying my very first taste of AAA Alberta prime rib beef.

The more time I spent with them and with my uncle Jimmy, the more I realized that making this visit wasn’t about seeing the sights—it was about learning about my family—and myself in the process, too.

Portraits of my great grandparents that I'd never seen before. 

My first night, my auntie and cousin showed me old photos of the house that my grandmother grew up in when she was living in China. They even gave me photos of my great great grandparents and great grandparents, as depicted in the portraits that, presumably, still hang in that same house to this day.

I also had no idea that my grandfather was a boxer. And not just any boxer, but a Golden Gloves boxer. My uncle told me how my grandpa, having emigrated to the U.S. from China in the 1940s, decided to take up boxing, purely for self defense (race relations weren’t exactly the greatest back then, to say the least). But, because of his stocky build and natural ability to throw a mean punch, he actually became a sort of amateur pugilist—in addition to running his own restaurant in Wichita, Kansas, of all places.

That restaurant is where he taught my uncle Jimmy how to cook—and in telling me that, that’s exactly when my uncle started tearing up, and so did I. I never got to know my grandpa; he died long before I was ever even born. But being able to hear these stories about him makes me feel like I do know him—at least a little bit now.

That kind of experience is something I couldn’t get anywhere else but here. More and more, I’m starting to realize that the best type of trip isn’t necessarily about seeing the big sights, or taking in the best meals (although that never hurts). It’s about the people you meet along the way—and, in some cases, those you might not ever get to meet. And for that experience alone, it’s more than worth it—even in those below-freezing temps.

Favorites, 2010 (Part 4, Friends)

What’s even better than getting to eat really well and see amazing sights? Getting to share all of that with your friends and family, of course. I was lucky enough to do just that this year …

Margery and I have traveled together twice—first to Israel in September 2009 and most recently to the Big Island, Maui and Oahu in March 2010. During our Hawaii trip I got to know Margery so much better and together we conquered a number of firsts, including our very first helicopter ride over the volcanoes on the Big Island. That, and also having to endure my crazy rental car driving skills on the Big Island—my apologies, Margery!

This year was also the second time that I got to travel with Daniel, one of my favorite PR reps ever. This year, he and Mariela (left) hosted me and a few other journalists in Mexico’s Riviera Maya, first in Cozumel and then in Playa del Carmen. Together, we shared many a margarita, rogue ocean waves and one very scary encounter with a wayward clown. This shot was taken right before we took a snorkeling excursion just off the coast of Cozumel.

Leslie is one of my dearest friends—we’ve known each other since high school. So, when I had an opportunity to cash in some vacation time and hoof it over to New York to see her, I didn’t let it pass me by.

Reuniting with my cousin Christina and her boyfriend Coco was one of the things I most looked forward to during my recent trip to Southeast Asia. Both of them, experienced world travelers that they are, are endlessly entertaining, funny, thoughtful and insightful. I especially loved this shot of the two of them, posing for a very regal portrait at Villa Sentosa in Melaka, Malaysia.

And finally, although I only traveled about 20 or so miles for this trip to the L.A. Times Food & Wine Festival, it’s a trip I’ll always remember for the company I kept with three of my closest friends—Justina, Tricia and Jennifer. I hope I’ll get to travel with them at a slightly further distance in 2011.

And while it’s been wonderful looking back on my travels this past year, I’m ready to start looking ahead to the next and I hope you’ll consider doing the same. So, here’s to a new year filled with unforgettable experiences no matter how near or far you go.

Favorites, 2010 (Part 3, Eats)

I already feel incredibly fortunate to be able to do two of the things I love most for a living: writing and traveling. And by far, the best added bonus of that would be eating—really good eating.

This year was no exception when it came to memorable meals that satisfied my insatiable hunger for new tastes or, in some cases, a yearning for the familiar. While narrowing down my list of favorite eats from 2010, I remembered all of those flavors and, even better, the friends—both and newfound and old—that I shared them with.

While traditional notions of afternoon tea often involve the following adjectives—stuffy, staid and proper—the two such afternoon teas that I had this past year were anything but.

The first took place at The Moana Surfrider in Waikiki. Afternoon tea has become a long-standing tradition at this historic hotel, which first opened in 1901. While I was there, I simply couldn’t pass up the opportunity to savor its famous afternoon tea and I’m so glad I did. My favorite part? Topping off the freshly baked raisin scone with Devonshire clotted cream and silky lemon curd. And for dessert? A soothing scoop of lime-accented green tea sorbet.

The other afternoon tea that I had was truly gluttonous—but so worth it. After a winding stroll through Melaka, Malaysia, my cousin, her boyfriend and I paid a quick visit to the Majestic Malacca hotel, a boutique property that my cousin had previously reviewed for TravelAge West. While the hotel itself was every bit as beautiful as she’d described, I was even more intrigued by its afternoon tea menu. So, of course, we decided to give into our hunger pangs. What I loved most about this afternoon tea was its nod to both Eastern and Western traditions, from the crisp spring rolls to the buttery, flaky-crusted chicken-pot pies.

Wherever your travels may take you, you should make it a point to visit the local farmers’ market. And, if you’re on Oahu, you should definitely stop by the Kapiolani Community College Farmers’ Market on Saturdays. Favorite eats included kimchee sausage (on a stick, no less, for easy portability), fried green tomatoes and kalua pork sliders. Just be sure to come hungry.

I’ll admit: I’m not much of a biscotti fan. I usually enjoy my coffee completely unadulterated—black, or topped off with just a little bit of steamed soy milk at the very most. However, the homemade, dark-chocolate dipped biscotti that I had during a stop at the Waialua Estate headquarters on the North Shore of Oahu had me seriously rethinking that assessment.

Who doesn’t love eating a tamale, especially in the morning? My first breakfast during my trip to Costa Rica this May involved this satisfying tamale which, on the outside, seemed totally unassuming. But, once opened, it revealed slightly sweet roasted plantains, masa (corn), a fried egg and gallo pinto (rice and beans). With a side of Salsa Lizano and a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice, what could be better?

Visiting a farm gives you a greater appreciation for what you consume. After visiting a dairy farm just south of San Gerardo de Dota in Costa Rica, I definitely had a much greater appreciation for all of the hard work that goes into making cheese, especially when it’s as tasty as the ones I sampled there.

This giant tostada-like shell, floating on a bed of guacamole, contained some of the most delicious ceviche I’ve had in a really long time.

If I had to pick my single most-favorite meal from Costa Rica it would be this: chorreadas (corn pancakes) topped with a dollop of sweetened sour cream and gallos (tacos) filled with a hearty helping of fried potatoes.

My nominee for best use of bacon: Nickel Diner’s Maple Bacon Donut.

My nominee for best use of avocados: the stuffed avocado salad, also from Nickel Diner.

When I wasn’t sightseeing in Singapore, I was usually eating, and eating really well, as demonstrated by some of my previous blog posts. One of my favorite meals involved Singaporean chili crab and pepper crab.

Nonya, or Peranakan-style cuisine was also a highlight, from delicate kueh pie tee and spicy otak-otak to saucy giant prawns and savory beef rendang.

Speaking of beef rendang … here’s a snapshot of my cousin, a true beef rendang connoisseur, enjoying her first Burger King beef rendang burger. She opted for the double.

The Indonesian-style beef rendang at Rumah Makan Minang was also delicious—and filling.

A standard-bearer for all future hotel welcome gifts, from the Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore: I especially loved the kueh lapis (nine-layer cake), made with alternating layers of butter, eggs and sugar.

My nominee for best way to enjoy a beer: from the luxury of a rooftop infinity pool.

My nominee for best lamb chops ever: the ones I had at Pearl River Palace at the Suntec Singapore Convention Centre, glazed with a wine reduction sauce.

My nominee for best use of chicken: chicken rice from Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice in Singapore.

If I could alternate between eating kaya toast and roti canai/prata, or maybe even xialongbao, for breakfast every day, I’d be a really happy—and most likely overweight—travel writer.

My nominee for best noodle dish this year: the char kway teow from Tang Fong food court in Melaka.

Lots of laksa: Nonya-style laksa from Donald & Lily’s in Melaka and asam-style laksa from the Chinatown Night Market in Melaka.

And last, but not least, the roast duck rice from Mei Wua, also in Melaka, made an ideal last dinner during my stay.

I can only hope for more amazing meals in the year to come. Until then, it might be time for me to hit the gym, just to prepare.

Next up, my favorite photos with friends …